My new cordless nailer jammed solid on a fence job in Phoenix last Friday

I was putting up cedar pickets in 105 degree heat when the thing just stopped feeding. I tried clearing it with the tool's release, but a nail head was wedged sideways in the magazine. Ended up taking the whole front end apart with a hex key on the tailgate. Some guys say to just buy the pro-grade model, others say all battery guns fail in extreme heat. What's your go-to fix for a bad jam when you're on site?

Appreciation post: I swapped a client's thermal paste with a graphite pad for a quiet build and the temps actually went up 5 degrees Celsius.

I thought it was a cleaner, permanent fix for a home office PC, but now I'm debating if pads are ever worth it over good paste for standard tower cooling setups.

I was reading an old Cessna service manual from the 70s and found out the original torque spec for the 172's nose gear bolts was 25% lower than what we use now.

My neighbor's old rivet forge versus my new propane one for a simple bracket job

I needed to make 20 identical brackets last month, and his setup took me 3 hours just to get the metal hot enough. The propane forge had them all done in under an hour, with way more even heat. Anyone else find that switching fuel types changed their whole workflow?

A warning about cheap lime mortar for historic repointing

I just finished a job in Savannah fixing a wall that was done two years ago with a modern cement mix. The owner wanted it cheap, but now the original brick is cracking. We stripped it and used a proper NHL 3.5 lime mortar, mixed at a 1:2:9 ratio. The difference is night and day. The lime lets the wall breathe and flex, which the rigid cement mix never could. Has anyone else had to fix a job where the wrong mortar caused damage?