Serious question, I compared two different ways to mix color for a client's root touch-up

I had a regular client come in for her usual root touch-up, a level 5 neutral brown. Last time I mixed the color with a 20 volume developer, but this time I tried a 10 volume because her hair felt a bit dry. The 20 volume gave a perfect match but lifted her natural color just a touch, which meant more frequent appointments. The 10 volume deposit-only formula matched just as well, didn't lift, and her hair felt way softer after. It's been six weeks and the color is holding strong with less visible regrowth. Has anyone else found that dropping down a developer volume for certain clients actually extends the time between their color services?

3 comments

3 Comments

burns.patricia1mo ago

Wait, you were using 20 volume on a level 5 root touch-up? That's the part that got me. I always thought the rule was deposit-only color for anything that dark (you know, to avoid lifting and brass). Using 20 vol on a five seems like it would just cause unnecessary damage and make the regrowth line way more obvious, which is exactly what you saw. Switching to 10 was definitely the right call for her hair health and for making the color last longer between visits.

barbara_sanchez881mo ago

Yeah, exactly. I learned that the hard way too. You get a bit of lift on that level 5 new growth and it turns into a warm band that shows up way too fast. Using 10 volume just matches the existing color perfectly, so it blends and grows out softer. It saves the client's hair and saves you from having to correct it later.

paige_harris20d ago

That's why I always check the natural level first, like Barbara said. A 10 volume just sits on top of that level 5 without disturbing it, so you get a clean match. It really does prevent that harsh line as it grows out.