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My old boss said never touch gray coverage with 10 volume, and I've been ignoring her for 6 months
When I was apprenticing at a salon in Boise, my boss Deb told me over and over that 10 volume on gray is a waste of time and I'd be doing color corrections all day. Last week a client with stubborn temple grays sat in my chair and I mixed 20 volume just to get it done faster, and now she has hot roots and I'm fixing it for free on Saturday. So how do you all handle the ones who want full gray coverage but swear their scalp burns with anything above 10?
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henry_hernandez21d ago
Wait, did Deb actually say 10 volume covers gray? Because that's backwards from what I learned. Gray hair has no pigment left, so it needs something to open the cuticle and deposit color, and 10 volume barely lifts anything. The trick with resistant gray is usually 20 volume plus extra pigment, or pre-softening first. Your client's problem was probably not the 20 volume itself but that the ends grabbed faster than the roots, which is why you got hot roots. So you could try 20 volume on the resistant spots with a lower volume on the rest, or use a dedicated gray coverage line that's made for this. Burning with 20 volume is real though, so keep it off the scalp or use a barrier cream.
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